Bucharest Series - Palace of the Parliament

I had only one half day to spare and decided to visit the Palace of Parliament. It was a short walking distance from the hotel. The concierge advised to book on the day of visit, which they did on the phone. Quite simple, in theory.

I read a lot about this building being the second largest administrative building in the world after Pentagon but frankly, it's rather disappointing. The building looks colossal from the outside but rather threadbare inside.

Entrance facing Calea 13 Septembrie

May wasn't yet the tourist season but already there were tourist buses parked outside the entrance. The building looks impressive from the outside. Later on, the guide would explain that when the building was constructed, some monasteries were demolished and about 40,000 people were forcibly relocated. The construction was done by soldiers to keep cost to a minimum. It was a totalitarian regime under Ceausescu after all.

Enormous queue at security check

On entry, the first step was to buy a ticket. I was told to bring my passport but two British guys in front did not bring theirs and argued with the ticket desk. Meanwhile a long queue formed. After obtaining the necessary vouchers, I joined another queue at the payment kiosk to pay. Then the real queuing began. The admission time was supposed to be 12 noon but it was only at 12.30 pm that the security screening started to operate. First, the visitors had to surrender their passport in exchange of an ID card, then went through security screening one by one, then waited ages for the tour to start. And what a disappointment.
The operative word for the building was size: 20 floors, 8 of which are underground, with a floor area of over 365,000 sq. m.; that apart, the interior was in parts very grand and in many parts uninspiring. Try as I did, I was not awestruck.

The auditorium not available for conference hire

It was very obvious that the Romanians loathe Ceaușescu; they executed him and his wife after all. It came through loud and clear in the narrative provided by the guide. The first room we were ushered into was the auditorium where a massive chandelier was the star of the show. I have since forgotten about the statistics but I marveled at the small room built to service the chandelier. I also made a mental note that a young woman aged 28 led 400 contributing architects back in the 1980's during the construction of the building. That truly was remarkable.
The guide, a young lady was engaging and witty. She answered all the questions raised by an American couple whilst the other visitors in the group stayed quiet. The conversations were peppered with unsolicited opinions from the Americans.

Grand staircase leading to top floor

The reception room for dignitaries

An ornate wooden door, courtesy of Zaire's Mobutu

Alexandru Ioan Cuza Hall, minus one chair

  

Elaborate decorations in Alexandru Ioan Cuza Hall

View from the balcony

I came away from the building with a chill down my spine, that there are megalomaniacs who are hellbent in building grandiose projects that are of little value to the ordinary men and women of their country. The building cost was estimated at €3 bn in early 2000. At 2014, the average monthly salary was less than €500.

Bucharest Series - A taste of Bucharest

I visited Bucharest in passing almost three years ago. This time, with a fresh pair of eyes, Bucharest seems to be more prosperous, from the cars on the road to the state of the roads. Reading some of the press reports, this is not surprising. The Economist in 2013 reported that "the average Bucharest resident was comfortably better off than the average resident of Manchester". An interesting fact, since economic migrants from Romania working in the UK are mostly in low-paid jobs. 

Another observation is that the Romanians are friendly and hospitable, except once when a taxi driver from the Cris taxi firm trying to rip me off - he offered a fixed price fare of 20 lei when I knew that the journey could not be more than 5 to 8 lei. Such are the antics of taxi drivers the worst over (with notable exceptions such as Japan and Dubai).

The airport hasn't changed much: the passport check on arrival at early afternoon was efficient. There was a wait for the baggage, almost 25 minutes, but bearable. On departure though, the security check is still working without a conveyor belt, so it is a case of pushing the trays along, rather cumbersome and inefficient I would say. And, there was only one bureau exchange near the departure gates, so it is a case of take it or leave it.

International departure, Otopeni Airport, Bucharest

I returned to Marriot Grand Hotel because I could not get a reasonable rate at hotels in the Old Town. It's near the Parliament but really in the middle of nowhere, with few restaurants nearby to choose from. The service was fine until I had to ask the hotel staff to repatriate an object that I left at the hotel through a colleague. They were very slow at it and it left a poor taste in the mouth.

View from the hotel window

The streets near the hotel gave a glimpse to how the "ordinary" people live. It was wall-to-wall apartments served by local shops. According to Wikipedia, the worst areas to buy properties in Bucharest are in Sector 5, which is where the hotel is located. " Once a thriving industrial area, the sector is now in dire need of improvement.... They are mostly inhabited by the impoverished Roma and are rubbish-strewn hotbeds of crime, including drug trafficking". So I was relieved not to see any of these distressful sights.

Grocery shop - the fruit and vegetables looked good

Ugly apartment blocks from the Soviet era, I assume

An amusement arcade - and there were a few of them

A mini supermarket 

The days of telephone boxes are over

Contrast this with the Old Town - what a difference! The historic architecture, the old churches, the outdoor terraces and cafes and the romantic feel make the Old Town an appealing area of the city. At night when the buildings are lit up, it really drew me in. I must find the time to experience more of Bucharest and to see more of the Old Town.

Bucharest at night

The Statue of Carol 1, opposite the Hilton Hotel

The food though, was disappointing at the two Italian restaurants we ate at. I wanted to try some Romanian food but was told by the locals that the local dishes are too heavy for the summer. What I did learn is that pork is the main dish and that the best vegetable also happens to be pork. At least two locals waxed lyrical about growing their own vegetables at their cottage outside Bucharest - invariably the tomatoes are the juiciest, the strawberries are the sweetest. They painted a picture of a simple life, living off the fruits of the land, making their own wine, feasting on organic wholesome food.

The Stadio restaurant, nothing to write home about

Apple Lemonade, a first for me

Simple breakfast, simple newspaper

And finally, the Tarom airport lounge at the Otopeni Airport. This is an absolute disgrace: a business lounge offering crisps, yogurt and biscuits as food. This has got to be the worst business lounge that I have come across in my travels. Even the makeshift British Airways lounge at Nairobi International airport attempted to offer some sandwiches curly at the edges.

Tarom business lounge - worse than a roadside cafe

Going slow on the Basingstoke Canal

What a delight to go slow on a glorious summer day on a barge down the Basingstoke Canal. The boat trip is one of the public cruises offered by the Basingstoke Canal Society, a registered charity run by a bunch of enthusiastic volunteers. The cruise that we took ran from Colt Hill in Odiham, Hampshire to the Odiham Castle and back, a distance of 1.6 miles as the crow flies but took 2.5 hours on the barge.

For once I did not carry my camera and relied solely on my iPhone 6 Plus. I noticed that I have begun to use my smartphone more and more to capture scenery on my trips - is it laziness or convenience?

Aboard the John Pinkerton II barge

The first thing I noticed was the snail pace; much more fun when I stepped onto the deck to watch the world go by. The Hampshire country side, spread out under an azure blue sky, stretched as far as the eyes could see, a perfect antidote to the stress of modern life.

The second thing was the powerful visual impression made by a traditionally decorated narrow boat - a riot of colours, painted all over the boat in increasingly layers of complexity. In the photo above, a water can sat atop the boat, complete with the boat's name. Such a water can was once used to carry water since in the horse-drawn boat era some canal water was so polluted that it was not suitable for horses to drink from the canal! And so the tradition carries on to this day.

A cantilever bridge that had to be pulled up to allow the boat to pass

The skipper turning round the boat on its return journey

Odiham Castle or King John's Castle

We got off at the Odiham Castle to allow the crew to turn round the boat on its return journey. What remains today is the three storied keep of stone and flint. It was built around 1207 by King John as a hunting lodge while on his journeys from Windsor to Winchester. The King made history when he rode from this castle at Odiham to Runnymede near Windsor, to set his seal on The Magna Carta. 

By far the sight that pleased me most was the profusion of yellow irises on the banks of the river. I love irises. The yellow flowers stand out among the duller weeds and sedges and I was most tempted to collect a few for the home but desisted from plundering the country side.

Bright yellow irises along the river banks

It was nice to travel with my beloved companion again.

A haiku from the Cotswold Canal, a sublime image of summer, dragonflies and lazy days.

What joy to receive

from each towpath dragonfly

its dismissive glance.

Delhi, India - Of Kindness, Chaos and Heat

The Indian people that I met on a recent trip to India had been incredibly kind to me; they were generous with their hospitality, warm and caring for their guests. From the time I was picked up at the airport by the hotel to the time I left, including the time I had to visit a doctor due to heat exhaustion, I was touched by the warmth, hospitality and kindness of those who went out of their way to look after me. 

This bowl of carnations appeared in  my room when the hotel learnt that I was unwell. They offered to call a house doctor but I dilly-dallied in the hope that I would recover, only to find myself being taken to the hospital the next day. Unexpectedly, the waiting time in the hospital was a fraction of that in the Emergency Department in a hospital in the UK. The consultation cost 500 INR, less than £5. I left impressed.

An abiding image of India: garbage, unmade roads and rubble everywhere. I asked why so much litter, and was told that picking up rubbish is a task for the lower caste. Yet within people's own homes, I was reliably told that people are moderately clean. Now check out this funny article at Times of India Clearly the "My Clean India" campaign launched by Narendra Modi the Prime Minister in 2014 hasn't had much effect.

I was expecting to see a lot of cows but only occasionally spotted a skinny one or two. It is incomprehensible for me that cows are left to freely roam in the streets and nibble at the garbage rather than being taken to pasture or left at the cowshed. If something is truly sacred, would you let it roam around at will?

Make no mistake, this auto rickshaw is seriously under loaded; I reckon it can hold up to 16 passengers. Auto rickshaws are here and everywhere, they come at you from all directions, from the front, from the sides; but they add interest because they provide so much human interest in such a small space. If it were not for the heat (40C), I probably would have tried out an auto rickshaw. When in Rome ....

View from the hotel - not exactly a pleasant one but at least no garbage was visible from the 6th floor. In the foreground is the construction of the extension of the rapid metro southwards to Sectors 55 & 56 where the hotel is situated. The skyline in the morning was typically dusty, but thankfully the pollution level wasn't half as bad as Beijing, something of a bonus to a weary traveller.

A clean and modern Indira Ghandi Airport Terminal 3, post immigration and security. There are 5 layers of security: passport and itinerary check at entrance to airport, passport check at check-in, passport check at immigration (long long queue), security past immigration (decided to use fast track), passport check at departure gate. My first impression on arrival was one of poor organization - the information board said baggage carousel no. 11 but the luggage was dispensed from no. 13. 

Sadly I did not get out of Gurgaon and Delhi to experience "Incredible India", but from a country that I had no wishes of setting foot on, I came away from a short visit with incredibly good memories of a people not renowned for their good manners abroad.

Goodbye 2015

Life was hectic working 6.5 days every week, 14 to 18 hours a day, so something had to give and the blog became a prime candidate. That, and coupled with my desire to go offline, this will probably be my last blog for a very long time.

Before I go, I want to recall some of the images that captured my imagination in 2015, when I did not have time to blog at all.

The hospitality at the Sheraton Mall of Emirates, Dubai, blew me away. Whether rose petals on the bed to welcome me back, to wish me happy birthday, or some animals in folded towels for amusement, I was well looked after. The staff at the Senabel restaurant and the Club Lounge would greet me by name and made me feel welcome, home from home.

Over the top wedding gold jewelry at the Gold Souk, Dubai. At a brand name much loved by the Indian contingent, the gold necklaces were literally flying off the shelves. Buyers were three deep and without a strong arm, tentative shoppers could not get a look in. And not a single security guard in sight, such is the law and order in Dubai. 

The Global Village, Dubai - at once gaudy and strangely attractive - a night time feast for the eyes. It cost 30 AED to get in and the shops inside the pavilions named after continents sold mostly cheap and tacky merchandise. The amusement park atmosphere evoked in me a marvel that I missed in my childhood. I bought two pashminas from an old man from Kashmir.

The Dubai Metro - fully automated, efficient and clean, this is the dream of modern transport. I took the Gold Carriage to have unimpeded view of the run on the Red Line from Mall of Emirates to Jebel Ali and then in the opposite direction to the international airport station at Rashidiya. From a forest of high rise to the desert, what a ride.

The Waterfall sculpture at the Dubai Mall - breathtakingly beautiful with figures of men diving in front of a man made waterfall. Of course there are also the Burj al Khalifa and the Dubai Dancing Fountain at this well keeled shopping mall, but to me this sculpture gave me awe and pleasure.

The Grand Mosque at Abu Dhabi - spectacular, monumental, truly awesome. I much prefer this to the Blue Mosque at Istanbul - the white marble so dazzling, the chandeliers so sumptuous, and the craftsmanship so exquisite. Reality beckoned at the car park - a guard picked me up for not donning my scarf.




The Miracle Garden at Dubai - beautiful models of houses, animals, decked with flowers. Petunias and marigolds created a riot of colours, the gardens kept spotlessly clean by an army of men from the Indian sub-continent. Most people in the service sector in Dubai came from Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal and Thailand.

The Ibn-Battuta Mall - an interesting concept for a shopping mall, themed along the places that the explorer Ibn-Battuta once visited. Quite how the locals conceived the image of a Chinese boat baffled me. However, the abundance of imperial reds and the motifs used definitely screamed Chinese. More is more.




Sidewalk stuffed with merchandise, Sharjah - I went one piping hot afternoon to Sharjah to enjoy some art and afterwards wandered around the empty streets looking at the place I imagined Dubai once looked like. The price explosion at Dubai must make places like Sharjah look extremely competitive, with dresses retailing for only 100 AED.




The Shoe Gallery, Dubai Mall - There are shoe shops and there are shoe shops. The cavernous shoe gallery at Dubai Mall was something to behold. Exquisite shoes, outrageous shoes, and mortgage-sized shoes were displayed enticingly among marble columns under seductive lighting. After this all other shoe shops pale into insignificance.



I close this blog with a view from the Sheraton Hotel Mall of Emirates. In the foreground is the Burj al Arab, dominating the skyline. I once inquired about high tea at this seven star establishment but balked a the price and wondered if the view of the Jumeriah beach and the environs plus the food was actually worth paying a king's ransom for an afternoon tea.

Santiago Series - Food, mouth watering food

I did not have time to read up about food in Chile. What a nice surprise then to have experienced some fabulous sea food, at reasonable prices (compared to UK). I asked the hotel concierge for recommendations and they directed me to two excellent seafood restaurants, one Chilean and one Peruvian.

A chef at Acqui esta Coco, a fabulous seafood restaurant

Octopus carpaccio, yummy

Seafood medley, delicious

Picarones, a Peruvian doughnut

The restaurant place mat, featuring the owner diving off a boat

Another great experience was dining at Astrid y Gaston, a restaurant serving quality Peruvian food and I was told, has outlets in various countries in Latin America.

Cancha, Andean corn nuts

Amuse bouche, octopus samosa

Seafood on a bed of squash with Peruvian salsa

Seared tuna with quinoa wrapped in banana leaf

But I must not forget the cafe next to the office where I went for lunch. It was a place that sells sandwiches, cakes, soups, hot food in small cartons, juices and drinks, and pizzas. Reading the shelf labels was a good way for me to learn some basic Spanish. On the second day I suffered from altitude sickness and was only able to manage a juice and a soup. The young staff there were delightful.

Caprioli cafe, Santiago 

Welcome freebie from hotel