Bratislava Series - Small name in a small market

At 07:30 hours, the traffic jam from the hotel to Roznavska is pretty bad for a small city.  In slow traffic, there are many opportunities to survey the landscape.  It was a surprise to see this sign; I thought Lancia was nearly extinct outside Italy. 

It's home for a few days.  The blue sky all the way from Bratislava to Vienna was a reminder of the summer weather I had left behind. 

Bratislava Series - A Corner of the World Stage

On Sunday 11th September, when the world news were awash with 9/11 memorial ceremonies, here in this corner of Slovakia, the 2011 Canoe Slalom World Championship drew to a close.  At the square between the Eurovea Galleria complex, the stage was set for the closing ceremony.  No chairs, just the open space, and two camermen in position, waiting for the dignataries to descend upon the waiting crowd.  There were a few token security men in de rigeur black gear, but there was an absence of police, which was a good indication of the safety factor.

An amateur theatre company was engaged to keep the children and the adults entertained before the medal ceremony.  Six men, dressed in veleur jumpsuits and eyes adorned in black kohl in the style of a panda, delivered some comic sketches along various Olympic themes.  Here, two guys were doing figure skating - oh yes, the "female" guy dressed in tutu and some crudely made corset.  To give the show a touch of audience participation, children were invited to spin a wheel which, when stopped, would yield a number that determined which routine the men would perform.  What impressed me was that kids as young as ~5 years of age, could count in English.

In this routine, the guys were supposed to be doing canoe slalom.  The plot was implausible, and it was difficult to make the connection between Red Indians, a cowboy, and this sport.  The slapstick however, was hugely enjoyable, especially when buckets of water were being thrown at the canoe rowers to create the impression that they were battling the waves. 

Another routine somehow brought out this ghost like figure, to the tune of Mozart's Requiem.  The connection was tenuous, but hey, the kids seemed to like it, although no one showed any fear of this ghastly image.  There was also a sketch about luge, and the central character was some Johnny from Manchester, who had 3 brothers, 5 sisters, and a number of dogs and cats.  Frankly, I was amazed at how such a stereotype from north of England was created.  Never mind, credibility should not get in the way of enjoyment.

The award ceremony was saved by three beautiful girls who were dressed in traditional folk costume.  They were grace and elegance personified.  Some athletes were presented with medals, but some received only bouquets of flowers and a goody bag, courtesy of Adidas, which has a scoop with this product placement.  The Slovakians won a few medals and drew loud applauses from the home crowd.  There were polite clappings for the Germans, Italians, French, Czech, British, Chinese and Australian medalists. 

It was a night of mild, enjoyable, home-made fun.  

Bratislava Series - A fresh pair of eyes

This weekend, my beloved pays me a visit at Bratislava.  Combing the Old Town is no longer a solitary affair.  And this is how he sees the place, with a different pair of eyes, and a different camera.

The main thoroughfare approaching the Old Town

Bratislava from the Castle Restaurant

Bratislava Series - Making Bubbles

There is a young man who has a fixture in the Main Square of the Old Town, making bubbles with two long sticks to amuse the public.  Sometimes, children would have a go at it, and it looks as if this little game with bubbles can be addictive.

During the day

At night

Bratislava Series - Hrad (Castle)

It was a long climb to the Castle, under the midday sun.  The Castle has been partially restored, only a small part of it - the "Treasury" was open to the public.  Said "Treasury" contained some earthen wares and gold coins, and for this, the tourist paid €2.50 for the privilege.  No wonder the place was empty.

The long climb to the Castle

The Castle, with the statue of Svatopluk.

He was the ruler of Moravia in the 8th C.

View of the UFO Observation Desk

astride the River Danube from the Castle

Bratislava Series - More Weddings

This really is the wedding season at Bratislava.  Every church was hosting a wedding, which effectively barred the tourists from entering the place. 

This bride outside St Martin's Cathedral looked radiant.  Here, she welcomed her family and friends to the wedding ceremony.  Some of the guests were in evening wear, and the odd one in jeans and shorts.  A lot of them brought bouquets of flowers, which were presented to the bride after the ceremony.

Another bride outside St Martin's Cathedral, receiving good wishes from friends and family. Although it must have been a joyous occasion, the atmosphere was subdued, almost solemn.  No hats for the ladies, in the Slovakian tradition.  As it was high summer, few men wore suits.

The Castle (Hrad) proves to be a popular place for photoshoot.  There were at least two couples who had chosen this historical place to stage their photoshoot.  It was a fiercely hot day, the groom who was wearing his tuxedo must be drowning in his own sweat. Equally, the bodice of the wedding gown must be trying on a hot summer day.  But of course the smiles carried the day.

Another photoshoot near the Castle.  This bride was accompanied by three of her friends, who teethered along in their stilettos, crunching the cobble stones on the Castle grounds.  Later the groom was seen to be holding the reflector whilst the photographer took pictures of a relaxed bridge sprawled out on the grass.

Every bride's best friend

Bratislava Series - View from the hotel window

The Sheraton Hotel is located at the new Eurovea Galleria, in a mixed complex comprising of residential, commercial and entertainment development.  This was the view from the sitting room early one morning. Quite an unusual sight, as there is not much building work going on at Bratislava.

Bratislava Series - Canoe Slalom

Today, Bratislava hosts the opening ceremony of the 2011 International Canoe Federation Canoe Slalom World Championship.  Apparently it was the qualifying round for the Olympics.  The stage was set in the square outside the hotel.  The local mayor and two other big wigs from the sport made the obligatory speeches, followed by some traditional dancing, some singing (classical and rock combined), and ended with break dancing with athlete participation.  It reminded me of Generation Game.... All local fun on a local scale.

Athletes watching the opening ceremony

Traditional folk dance

Children waving national flags

at the end of the opening ceremony

Bratislava Series - Street Art

So often, in a new city, with a fresh pair of eyes, and not dashing here and there, there is so much street art to admire.

Beautiful glass ware at the gable of the Palace Hotel, Old Town.

Gustav Klimt style mosaic at the entrance

of a store, also Old Town

Monotone spray paint on the wall of a building

Bratislava Series - Blue Church

Passed the Blue Church again today, and could not resist joining the congregation in the midst of Sunday Mass.

Standing room only inside the church.  This was taken just after Communion, when nearly the entire congregation queued up for the Holy Sacrement.  Outside, some locals gathered, listening intently to the mass that was broadcasted on the public address system. 

Bratislava Series - Street sculptures

For a small city like Bratislava, there are quite a lot of sculptures, some at the most unlikely places.  I was expecting huge statement pieces from the Soviet era, but so far found none.  To the left is Julius Satinsky, actor, comedian, and a civil movement supporter.  His statue is perched outside a cafe, under a huge ear, pregnant with meaning.

This quirky figure, looking like Napolean, appeared to be eavesdropping in the Main Square.  The young couple who was sitting on the bench very politely pulled back to allow me to take this picture.  Napolean's army attacked Bratislava twice, and the man himself visited the city in 1809. 

Not quite sure what this sculpture depicts.  It stands in a negleceted patch next to the Radisson Hotel in the Old Town.  Often in the Old Town, there are shady areas perfect as a refuge from the fierce heat.  It was 31 degrees C today.  I got lost, and the journey from the Old Town back to the hotel took the best part of 2 hours, by which time I was exhausted from the heat. The journey, as the crow flies, should take no more than 30 minutes.

Two beautifully crafted iron work in the Old Town.  They are little gems from a bygone era.  Today, the thoroughfares in the Old Town were overflowing with tourists, most of them sporting T shirts and three-quarter length trousers, not the most pleasing of attire.  In contrast, the promenade along the River Danube was deserted, perhaps because there are no shops there to attract tourists and their compunction to buy souvenirs.

Bratislava Series - Main Square

The old town of Bratislava is centered on two squares, the main square is Hlavne namestie. I first saw it one evening when it was nearly empty, and it was a charming open space.  Today, it was thronged with tourists, and a stage set up for folk music.  Milling around the stage were musicians and dancers dressed in traditional folk costume.  Pity the womenfolk wearing leather boots in high summer.

Bratislava Series - Weddings

It must be the wedding season.  In the space of one day, whilst strolling around the Old Town, I saw no less than three weddings.

Hanging onto her man, who was holding her bouquet.  In front of the couple was a photographer, capturing these tender moments on a girl's big day.  Later, she was seen throwing off her shoes at a pavement cafe, whilst her wedding carriage, a Mercedes, waited nearby.  The meringue style wedding dress is very much in vogue in Bratislava.

An interminable mass, hosted by two priests and supported by three altar boys.  The guests were up and down like yo yos during the proceedings, reminding me of my younger days when masses were said in Latin, and women wore head veils to masses.  After 15 minutes of mass speak, I gave up and quietly backed out.

A crowd gathering outside the Blue Church - Church of St Elizabeth in the Old Town, for a wedding.  Some guests were in casual wear, some in long gowns, a curiously mixed bag.  On the opposite side of the street, another group also gathered, around the bride and the groom.  Some guests were seen carrying bouquets, some single roses, presumably gifts for the couple.  Everything with this church is blue - the facade, mosaics, interior decoration, and a blue glzed roof. Once seen, never forgotten.

Bratislava Series - Slovak folk art

It's my first weekend at Bratislava, solo.  Summer is back, with a vengence, with temperature soaring to well above 30 C. The Old Town was a hive of activity, with craft stalls selling local craft.  These stall holders are licensed, and many wear a badge with their name on it.

A woman in folk costume painstakingly decorating an egg.  In Slovakia, this art form is called Kraslice, which simply means decorated Easter eggs.  The eggs have elaborate geometrical designs in brilliant colours, the whole giving a sharp jewelled effect that is exceedingly decorative and attractive.  All the eggs come with a ribbon, which make them ideal for hanging onto a Christmas tree.  It was mesmerising watching her flicking her painting brush from the paint onto the egg, and the concentration she applied to her craft.

Mr Flintstone making objects with ropes, e.g. hammocks. This was a character to behold, a bulky man with bulging biceps, dressed in an eye catching outfit, and had installed in his stall a beautiful, blond assistant to keep him fed and watered.  A child was nosing around and carelessly knocked the displays over.  Without a word, girl Friday sprang to action, signalled to the child's father, and together put the show back on the road.

Not the knitting you know.  The art of knitting with wire has been developed into an art form of a high order.  From this lady I bought a pair of earrings which is shaped like a narrow hibiscus with stamens.  Other wire knitters have produced fantastically elaborate designs such as hats, castles, animals, etc.  Tomorrow I will go and fetch a pair of dragon fly earrings which I have commissioned, and whenever I wear them, I will remember my first solo weekend at Bratislava.  

Beautifully decorated ginger bread.  Decorated ginger bread has a long tradition in Eastern Europe.  In Slovakia, they are called Medovnik.  One American tourist bought a whole bag of them, declaring that she would distribute them to her grandchildren at Christmas time.

A woman operating her loom making table runners.  She was just one of many stallholders using this technique to attract buyers.  I must say that these street market stall holders, dressed in their folk costume and putting in a day's work in the hot sun deserve all the custom they crave.

Bratislava Series - Night time

The bar at Primi, a bustling restaurant/bar, heavy footfall, but light on service.  Waited 30 minutes for the sea bream to come, and in that time, had passively smoked 3 cigarettes.  Smoking is very common among the Slovakians; everywhere you see men and women lighting up. Marlborough seems to be a favourite brand.

The walkway along the River Danube at night. The evening is much cooler now, although it has not stopped young girls and women wearing ultra short hot pants, showing off their nicely bronzed legs. 

Bratislava Series - Everyday images

View from the verandah of Rosznavska 24.  Not the prettiest of view, and a lot of taxi drivers cannot find the building, but the people inside made all the difference.  Today was a public holiday, so there were some calm moments to survey the surrounding landscape and enjoy the fresh air.  The stifling summer heat has dissipated.

The now familiar sight of Eurovea Galleria: a shopping mall with many familiar names: H&M, Mango, Cerruti, Promod, New Yorker, and surprise surprise, Debenhams.  In the evening, the shops were nearly empty, and it begs the question, why are they opening late for little or no foot traffic.   The prices here are comparable to other European cities, no shoppers paradise here. There is something very soulless and characterless about these modern shopping malls - you see one and you see them all.

Tonight, another gathering in the hotel.  Two nights ago, there was a wedding, and the loud music from the ballroom kept me awake until 02:00, by which time I gave up the will to count sheep. So, in the middle of the night, on my third phone call, a manager materialised to help me evacuate with the bare essentials to the top floor, where I snatched a few hours sleep.  The next day, all my personal belongings were moved, but there was not a single note of apology from hotel management.  Or perhaps it is not in the operations manual to say sorry to a customer.