Tuesday 22 October 2013

Arlington Court, near Barnstaple, North Devon

It was late summer and the weather was holding up. A perfect day for exploring the beautiful grounds at Arlington Court.

Arlington House, North Devon

A rather grand staircase, Arlington House
The boxy exterior of the house belies the interesting objects inside the house. The Chichester family were hoarders: from model ships to seashells to pewter, and what an eclectic collection it is. Was it a hobby or was it an obsession? Was the collection habit in the genes?
An example of a very extensive sea shell collection,
beautifully arranged
They family travelled extensively and they brought home treasures that would once considered as exotic. The place is almost like a museum, although the objects on display were not of museum grade. Modern day travels for many people are about sun, sea, sand and sangria. How times have changed.
A well used trunk. What a difference half a century makes.
Now we have wheeled cases and bar codes on luggage tags.
One of the carriages on display at the National Trust Carriage Museum,
Arlington Court
Arlington Court boasts an interesting collection of carriages. The most valuable item is the gloriously golden Speaker's Coach, on loan from the Houses of Parliament. It is a magnificent object, elaborately carved and gilded, with allegorical paintings on the doors and side panels. Alas, photography is forbidden.

The Victorian garden at Arlington Court
The Victorian garden within the grounds of Arlington House was recently restored, and what a success it is. It was a tranquil place to visit and to take a rest. There was even a resident peacock. A perfect place to end a summer day out.


Monday 21 October 2013

Exmoor and its surrounds, North Devon

It's been such a long time. I still travel with the camera, but haven't used it for a while. As the day shortens and the light quality worsens, the conditions for photography are not right. And when I was at Stockholm last time, commuting on the metro during rush hours, it became clear that there was no time to compose pictures, no time to stand and stare, let alone time to check out the naive art at the underground stations along the track.

Back on home soil and catching up on the last of the summer sunlight, the trip to Exmoor, North Devon took me to a part of England that I hardly ever see. 

One of the enduring sights at Exmoor is the Exmoor pony, roaming on Exmoor as some kind of semi-feral livestock. These creatures must be pretty hardy to withstand the wind and cold in the winter months, but at this time of the year, they have not yet grown their winter coat. You can go up to them and stroke them, a sign that they are habituated to human beings.
An Exmoor pony mare with her foal


Exmoor National Park
Exmoor is a beautiful landscape of moorland, woodland, valleys and farmland. From this vantage point, one can see the high cliffs plunging into the Bristol Channel, and en route there are old fashioned tearooms offering cream teas (scones with clotted cream) that are so popular in the south west. 
A cosy pub lined with bookcases,
offering a quiet spot for food and relaxation
A unique place to visit is the Broomhill Sculpture Garden near Barnstaple. Established in 1997 by a Dutch couple, it has grown into one of the largest permanent collections of contemporary sculpture in the south west of England. There is something for every taste, and there is a surprise at every corner. Some of the pieces are really abstract, but that's modern art for you. 
Dreams


Connected
Broomhill Sculpture Garden is located at the Broomhill Art Hotel "where art and culture meet in magical surroundings". Setting aside all the noble intentions of using fresh, organic, fair trade produce from the neighbourhood, the Terra Madre restaurant did serve up some delicious and pretty looking food. There are lots of raving reviews about this restaurant at TripAdvisor, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the eating is entirely satisfactory.
Home cured meats at the Broomhill Art Hotel
A picture on a plate


Ilfracombe Harbour
All along the coast, there are charming towns and Ilfracombe is one of them. The pier is dominated by the Verity statue, a bronze sculpture of a pregnant woman holding a sword by an artist no less than Damien Hirst. It is a powerful image of "truth" and "justice", once seen, never forgotten.


 Lynmouth Harbour, where Exmoor meets the sea
Further along the coast are the pretty villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, connected by a funicular cliff lift. Lynton sits 600 ft above the small harbour of Lynmouth, and the view from the cliff railway was breathtaking.

Having travelled to this part of England, I can now understand why so many people from the city have chosen to move here, for the countryside and a less hectic life style.

From a dear friend, who reminds me of the time that I should give myself - a poem by William Henry Davies:


"What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows.
No time to see, when woods we pass,
Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass.
No time to see, in broad daylight,
Streams full of stars, like skies at night.
No time to turn at Beauty's glance,
And watch her feet, how they can dance.
No time to wait till her mouth can
Enrich that smile her eyes began.
A poor life this if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare."