Friday 1 June 2012

Zagreb Series - Brilliant Blues and Hues

Flower stallholders, from Dolac Market
It's been such a long time since my last blog. So much work, so little time. Flitting between Zagreb and Bratislava was exhausting, particularly when the travelling was done out of office hours after a long day. 


During my penultimate trip to Zagreb, it was high summer: a scorching 29 degrees C. The walk to the Cathedral took us past Dolac Market, Zagreb's main fruit and vegetable market, with the unmistakable red parasols sparkling in the sun. This bustling market reminded me of the markets in Hong Kong, although it had the added attraction of stall holders pitching their produce to their potential customers. There was a mouth-watering array of foodstuffs, the most attractive on the day were the strawberries bursting with their red juiciness.


Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Zagreb
Characterised by its twin towers, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is one of the defining symbols of the city.  On a very hot day, it was a welcome refuge from the sweltering heat. Inside, it was thronged with tourists, their average age being 70. I salute these plucky senior citizens, clinging on to their walking sticks, trying hard to have a good time. Inside, the style is Baroque, which is borne out by the richly decorated altars. 


The clock outside the Cathedral






Outside the Cathedral stand a display of "before" and "after" stonework, showing the skills of the stonemasons who have been repairing the Cathedral since the demise of the Communist regime.  The clock on the city wall apparently is showing the time when the huge earthquake of 1880 shook the city and stopped the clock in its track. Underneath the clocks were some benches, and here, a number of old people sat there aimlessly, their clocks also seemed to have stopped. I sat opposite them, wondering if one day I would also sit alone, trying to pass the time in solitude.





Suddenly, the beat of drums alerted us to a parade outside the Cathedral. The soldiers looked like a rag bag of hastily assembled troops, their uniform looked well worn and needing a refresh. In the heat, they were remarkably unfazed in their thick woollen cloaks and leather boots. Salute to the stoicism and the heatproof qualities of these soldiers.


To round up the day, we went to the Croatian National Theatre to see the Sleeping Beauty. Nothing special, but when a female dancer kept missing her jumps, I realised just how hard ballet dancing really is.


Sleeping Beauty at the National Theatre, Zagreb


An oasis of green in Zagreb