São Paulo Series - A rich mix of architecture styles, Part 1

São Paulo has a rich mix of architecture ranging in period and style. It is a city with diverse and unusual juxtapositions: a mixture of modernist architecture, mirrored skyscrapers and historical buildings. The modern buildings - glass towers of different hues mingle with impressive granite and marble-faced structures and metal-sheathed ones. The city's eclectic appearance is quite unique among the world's large metropolitan cities.

I haven't seen enough of this eclectic mix yet. The ones below are those that capture my imagination.

Caetano de Campos School, Republica Square, (Praça da República)

Located right next to the Republica metro station is this school, now site of the São Paulo State Department of Education, a handsome structure of yellow brick that contrasts with the mid-20th century glass and steel towers in the neighbourhood. 

Edifício Copan

Oscar Niemeyer, the eminent architect of Brazil, personally designed the famous sinuous facade. Unfortunately the wave like structure was masked by building cover and in any case, only an aerial view could do it justice. We were told by the guide that the building houses so many residents (over 1000) that it has its own postal code.

Biblioteca Mário de Andrade

The largest public library in the city and one of the leading research libraries in the country. The Art Deco style is considered one of the icons of this style in the city. Its sombre frontage befits an institution that promotes learning and research.

Theatro Municipal São Paulo

Without doubt an architectural landmark of the city, inspired by the Paris Opera. Intranet material describes the inside of the building as home to a wealth of wall and ceiling frescoes, Neoclassical columns, busts, chandeliers and statues - treasures that I have made a mental note to see for myself.

São Paulo Cathedral

To get to the Cathedral, one has to navigate pass a fairly large number of homeless people. After all, Christ was on earth to serve the poor, and the poor in São Paulo are very visible. Although the building is Neo-Gothic, the dome is inspired by the Renaissance dome of the Cathedral of Florence. On a Saturday afternoon, the cathedral was thronged with visitors and worshipers alike; the decorations inside are stark for a cathedral in a Catholic country.

Mercado Municipal de Sao Paulo

Approaching the Municipal Market from a distance, the facade is impressive. Inside, there are thousands of food items on offer: lush tropical fruit, meats and fish, wines and spirits, snacks and desserts. We had a snack there, after waiting for over 45 minutes for a table. Nothing special to report on the food, as most of menu items contain cheese and I do not eat cheese. I had some kind of a fish cake but like most fish dishes in the city, it was laden with salt. The ladies toilet, not decorated for at least 20 years, had about 5 cubicles and there was a long wait. Thankfully there is a queuing system in São Paulo. On our way to the market, we passed through shops and street vendors selling a thousand and one things, mostly cheap merchandise. 

Church along Av. Paulista

I went inside this church that is located at the west end of Paulista Avenue. It was quiet and were it not for the group walking tour, I would have stayed on and had a few moments to reflect and contemplate.

House of Coronel Joaquim Franco de Mello

One of the striking features in the city centre of São Paulo is the juxtaposition of the new and the old. Most of the historical buildings have been daubed with graffiti; they are in a state of limbo because the owners are waiting for a day when they can sell the building and land to developers. 

Avenida Paulista

This is the view of Avenida Paulista from its junction with Av. Reboucas. From here, one can see the various radio and TV station antennas towering above the buildings. Most of the high rise buildings on the Av. Paulista are soul-less and devoid of creativity.

Antenna, Av. Paulista

This antenna tower is a landmark especially when it is dramatically lit up in different colours at night. Show time!

Old style buildings, side street of Av. Paulista

There are still some old style two-storey buildings littered around São Paulo, most of them painted in vibrant colours. Some of them have verandas on the second floor, some of them have wooden window shutters protecting the house from the summer heat, and they add a quaintly old fashioned feel and contrast to this bustling city.

The abandoned Metarazzo's Hospital

The guide took us to this historical building that was once a hospital. He talked of a haunted hospital which I suspect is spicing things up for the tourists. The place was recently visited by Philippe Starck who aimed to revitalize the area by transforming it into a major cultural complex with cinemas, exhibition space, theatres and even a luxury hotel. "Like most things in Brazil, I will believe it when I see it", the guide sighed. Given the lack of organization and efficiency that I have observed so far, his words might have a ring of truth to it.

The brightly lit antenna tower, Av. Paulista

Once the mansion of a coffee baron, now a bank - old and new money

For a change, this historical building has been restored, painted over and gleaming in white. Among the featureless skyscrapers, this one is a gem, however in-congruent it is with its neighbours.

Casa das Rosas

The House of the Roses was designed by one Francisco de Paula Ramos de Azevedo (yes, the Brazilians have long names) shortly before his death. It was a wedding gift to his daughter until the late 1980s when it was expropriated by the state government of Sao Paulo. Now it has been transformed to a cultural centre with allegedly the most beautiful rose gardens in the city. Alas, it was winter, not a time for roses.

Kobra pays homage to Oscar Niemeyer

This is the work of Brazilian street artist Eduardo Kobra and four other painters, who paid tribute to architect Oscar Niemeyer in bold, striking colours. Covering the entire side of a skyscraper on Av. Paulista, the artwork is inspired by Niemeyer’s architecture, his love of concrete and Le Corbusier. Look closely at the colourful forms that overlay the photo-realistic portrait, you will find that some of them are based on Niemeyer’s works. Interestingly, the painters received no compensation from anyone, only the materials, lodging and food were donated by the neighbours. Bravo to this labour of love.

Rua Augusta 

I pass this road to and from the metro station Consolação. It is in the Jardins neighbourhood, a safe part of the city (safe in the sense that I dare walk alone after 8 pm). On this road, there is a famous restaurant called Fogo de Chao, a Brazilian steakhouse serving overpriced food at 130 BRL a head for all you can eat buffet and meats. The meats were too overdone for me. Along Rua Augusta, the buildings are a mix of high and low rise, with underground car parks heavily protected by electronic access and egress gates.

What will I see today?

The famous MASP building

This iconic building of the Museum of Arts looks more attractive on photo than in reality: the concrete has darkened over the years and the red pillars desperately need a repaint. But I love it because the building appears to defy gravity. 

More of the old buildings

I close this blog with a photo of the old style buildings found in the back streets of the Paulista area. I have wondered: when will they be bulldozed to the ground to make way for skyscrapers?

São Paulo Series - Out and about in the safe areas

Is São Paulo a safe place? Second hand information came from a colleague who was robbed ten times, two of those incidents involved his car. Direct advice came from a female colleague: she has two purses with her at all times, one for surrendering to robbers and one as back up. Before the World Cup 2014, authorities in São Paulo issued a warning to visitors: "Do no react, scream or argue", the pamphlet says, according to Estadao de Sao Paulo, a local newspaper. Failing to heed the advice may result in robbery leading to cold-blooded murder. Furthermore, visitors are advised not to flaunt flashy items such as jewelry or watches, and to be vigilant at all times. With trepidation, therefore, I visited only a few safe places thus far.

News kiosk, Avenida Paulista

The Avenida Paulista has a number of news kiosks, selling newspapers, journals, books, cold drinks and the occasional tourist tack. But no English newspapers whatsoever. Daily diet of English news is restricted to CNN (a very USA-centric view of the world) and of course the internet.

A market of fakes, Avenida Paulista 

Of all the places I was least expecting a fake market at São Paulo. Here it is: an entire floor of market stalls selling fakes: watches, handbags, electronic equipment, all manned by Chinese. I almost felt ashamed that the Chinese peddle fakes all the way from factories in China to a city where people are robbed for their perceived high value items.

The Village, Augusta Avenue

The Village is a quaint shopping arcade with a collection of small shops. I was expecting some interesting home grown merchandise but nothing of the sort. A wasted opportunity. But maybe there isn't a demand for the kind of merchandise that I was looking for. 

Bikes for hire, Jardins area

I came across this bank of bikes in the Jardins area: a middle class area with high rise buildings guarded by security fences and gates. Judging from the availability, the demand for such bikes on the day was low.

Street art

São Paulo has a vibrant culture of street art. Even a closing down sales notice on the shop window is art.

Mural, Rua Haddock Lobo

Due to safety concerns, I have not been able to photograph murals that I see on the way to work. And there are some pretty spectacular pieces, including a series on the pillars of a flyover. This one is along an expanse of wall about 4 metres long, and depicts what I consider to be a fairy tale picture of a princess and paradise.  

Children's hairdressing salon

Not far from the hotel is this hair dressing salon for children. It has one of the most interesting designs that I have ever seen anywhere. I almost wished that I could be sitting on one of those chairs, admiring the decoration.

Any suggestion for a caption?

What a witty mural! And I was taught by my colleagues the significance of number 10 in the Brazilian football team. One colleague needed to buy the Brazilian national team's T-shirts for his sons and ended up paying 120 BRL for each - apparently before Brazil lost, the T-shirts were four times the price.

Parque Tenente Siquerie Campos 

The São Paulo Free Walking Tour took us to this park right in the city centre, which Rafa the guide described as a mini Amazon jungle. It's a short walk from the Museum of Art on Av. Paulista, and well worth a visit to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life. 

Graffiti, Avenida Paulista

Graffiti, underpass of Avenida Paulista

Graffiti and murals are such a large part of the day-to-day scene in São Paulo. The guide warned: do not venture to the underpass to take pictures of the murals! It is not safe!

Street vendors, Paulista Avenue

At the weekend, the Avenida Paulista is lined with street vendors, mostly selling the same things: jewelry, dream catchers, scarves. There must be some large warehouses somewhere, selling the same things to hundreds if not thousands of street traders. As I do not speak Portuguese, I did not attempt to inquire the price of any items on display.

Police, Av. Paulista 

There is a heavy police presence in the city centre of São Paulo. They all carry guns and wear flak jackets. I am not sure if they are there for deterrence or protection, or both. They bear evidence to the fact that São Paulo is not a safe place at all.

Love Locks

 The only few love locks that I saw at São Paulo. I wish there were more.

Street entertainer, Sao Paulo

The Big Ears, Sao Paulo

These telephone booths are colourful and attractive. Most of them have been sprayed with graffiti. I hardly saw anyone using them, since most Brazilians on the streets of São Paulo seem to have a mobile phone.

Everyday life

Everyday life

A seedy side of city life

Are they fakes?

I end this blog with this question: where are all the friendly people in São Paulo? Will I get to meet them? 

São Paulo Series - Museum of Art

The São Paulo Museum of Art stands proudly and squarely on the Paulista Avenue, 8 metres above ground, supported by four pillars and connected by two huge concrete beams. Between the pillars and the beams, the huge space is used on Sundays by market stalls, and on a Saturday, it is a free space for citizens and tourists. It is such a clever and unusual design and such an unmistakable landmark.

The Sao Paulo Museum of Art, Av. Paulista

The internet describes this museum as holding the finest collection of European art in Latin America and indeed in southern hemisphere. So it came as a disappointment that it does not compare anywhere near the likes of Prado in Madrid or the Hermitage in St Peterburg. Still, it was a nice place to spend a few hours under cover on a Saturday. Today, the temperature was 20C but it felt more like 12C. 

The entrance fee is 15 BRL and all visitors have to open their bags for inspection at the security check point. Any bottled water has to be deposited at the cloakroom located at ground level near the entrance to the building. The security guard stuck a label with a number to my bottle of water and stuck another label with the same number to the back of my entry ticket and sent me off to the gallery. It was the first time that I experienced a ban of bottled water from an art museum.

Living rough, outside Sao Paulo Museum of Art

I have been struck by the visibility of makeshift shelters at São Paulo. Underneath the museum, there were people lying on the ground entirely covered by blankets. At one corner of the building there were two tents with signs of being lived in. São Paulo is such an expensive city, even by European standards, little wonder that signs of poverty are so rampant right in the city centre, on the main thoroughfare of the city. Where I stay, in the Jardins area, there are plush apartments behind security gates, with lush lawns, palm trees, and security guards in flak jackets.

Despite the disappointment of such a small collection, there are a few pieces that brought a lot of pleasure to me. Here they are, in no particular order.

Degas's Four Ballerinas on Stage. Such grace and elegance.

Renoir's Girl with a bunch of Spikes

Massuoli's Sleeping Diana - I could almost hear her breathing

Ingres's The Virgin of the Blue Veil - a mix of sensuality and serenity

Drouais's Duke of Berry and Count of Provence as Children - 

who would have thought they were boys?

In the basement area there was a photography exhibition and I found a lot of photos that I like. I wish I had the skill and the eye to take such photos. 

The X shaped staircase in the basement

Workers toiling to build Brasilia

Two boys having fun with their bikes