Sunday 24 August 2014

São Paulo Series - Out and about in the safe areas

Is São Paulo a safe place? Second hand information came from a colleague who was robbed ten times, two of those incidents involved his car. Direct advice came from a female colleague: she has two purses with her at all times, one for surrendering to robbers and one as back up. Before the World Cup 2014, authorities in São Paulo issued a warning to visitors: "Do no react, scream or argue", the pamphlet says, according to Estadao de Sao Paulo, a local newspaper. Failing to heed the advice may result in robbery leading to cold-blooded murder. Furthermore, visitors are advised not to flaunt flashy items such as jewelry or watches, and to be vigilant at all times. With trepidation, therefore, I visited only a few safe places thus far.


News kiosk, Avenida Paulista

The Avenida Paulista has a number of news kiosks, selling newspapers, journals, books, cold drinks and the occasional tourist tack. But no English newspapers whatsoever. Daily diet of English news is restricted to CNN (a very USA-centric view of the world) and of course the internet.


A market of fakes, Avenida Paulista 

Of all the places I was least expecting a fake market at São Paulo. Here it is: an entire floor of market stalls selling fakes: watches, handbags, electronic equipment, all manned by Chinese. I almost felt ashamed that the Chinese peddle fakes all the way from factories in China to a city where people are robbed for their perceived high value items.

The Village, Augusta Avenue

The Village is a quaint shopping arcade with a collection of small shops. I was expecting some interesting home grown merchandise but nothing of the sort. A wasted opportunity. But maybe there isn't a demand for the kind of merchandise that I was looking for. 

Bikes for hire, Jardins area

I came across this bank of bikes in the Jardins area: a middle class area with high rise buildings guarded by security fences and gates. Judging from the availability, the demand for such bikes on the day was low.

Street art

São Paulo has a vibrant culture of street art. Even a closing down sales notice on the shop window is art.


Mural, Rua Haddock Lobo

Due to safety concerns, I have not been able to photograph murals that I see on the way to work. And there are some pretty spectacular pieces, including a series on the pillars of a flyover. This one is along an expanse of wall about 4 metres long, and depicts what I consider to be a fairy tale picture of a princess and paradise.  

Children's hairdressing salon

Not far from the hotel is this hair dressing salon for children. It has one of the most interesting designs that I have ever seen anywhere. I almost wished that I could be sitting on one of those chairs, admiring the decoration.


Any suggestion for a caption?

What a witty mural! And I was taught by my colleagues the significance of number 10 in the Brazilian football team. One colleague needed to buy the Brazilian national team's T-shirts for his sons and ended up paying 120 BRL for each - apparently before Brazil lost, the T-shirts were four times the price.


Parque Tenente Siquerie Campos 

The São Paulo Free Walking Tour took us to this park right in the city centre, which Rafa the guide described as a mini Amazon jungle. It's a short walk from the Museum of Art on Av. Paulista, and well worth a visit to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life. 

Graffiti, Avenida Paulista


Graffiti, underpass of Avenida Paulista

Graffiti and murals are such a large part of the day-to-day scene in São Paulo. The guide warned: do not venture to the underpass to take pictures of the murals! It is not safe!


Street vendors, Paulista Avenue

At the weekend, the Avenida Paulista is lined with street vendors, mostly selling the same things: jewelry, dream catchers, scarves. There must be some large warehouses somewhere, selling the same things to hundreds if not thousands of street traders. As I do not speak Portuguese, I did not attempt to inquire the price of any items on display.


Police, Av. Paulista 

There is a heavy police presence in the city centre of São Paulo. They all carry guns and wear flak jackets. I am not sure if they are there for deterrence or protection, or both. They bear evidence to the fact that São Paulo is not a safe place at all.


Love Locks

 The only few love locks that I saw at São Paulo. I wish there were more.


Street entertainer, Sao Paulo


The Big Ears, Sao Paulo

These telephone booths are colourful and attractive. Most of them have been sprayed with graffiti. I hardly saw anyone using them, since most Brazilians on the streets of São Paulo seem to have a mobile phone.


Everyday life


Everyday life


A seedy side of city life


Are they fakes?

I end this blog with this question: where are all the friendly people in São Paulo? Will I get to meet them?