Zagreb Series - My Favourite Sculpture

At the Mimara Museum, Zagreb

Zagreb Series - The Hotel

By far the best can be said of the Westin Hotel is the view from one of the suites on the 14th floor. Incidents include: loud thumping disco music emanating from a "private party" at 0130 on a Saturday morning, concierge appearing with a replacement room key at 0200 hours reeking of drink, no hot water, Internet connection down, power points not working, grumpy service.

Zagreb Series - Flora

I had not imagined that Zagreb has so many green spaces with artfully arranged flora. Here, these specimens are found at the Botanical Garden. They are my favourites, for their unusual colour.

And now, a man-made object, seen in Gornji Grad (Upper Town)

Zagreb Series - Art and Fashion

Graffiti on rolling stock, Zagreb main railway station

Exquisite jade piece, Mimara Museum, Zagreb

Soviet type statue near Zagreb main railway station

A bronze statue fished out of the Adriatic, painstakingly cleaned and restored

A thousand origami cranes at the Botanical Gardens

Art deco building in the Lower Town, Zagreb

High end fashion, Lower Town, Zagreb

Same high end boutique, Lower Town, Zagreb

Zagreb Series - Brilliant Blues and Hues

Flower stallholders, from Dolac Market

It's been such a long time since my last blog. So much work, so little time. Flitting between Zagreb and Bratislava was exhausting, particularly when the travelling was done out of office hours after a long day. 


During my penultimate trip to Zagreb, it was high summer: a scorching 29 degrees C. The walk to the Cathedral took us past Dolac Market, Zagreb's main fruit and vegetable market, with the unmistakable red parasols sparkling in the sun. This bustling market reminded me of the markets in Hong Kong, although it had the added attraction of stall holders pitching their produce to their potential customers. There was a mouth-watering array of foodstuffs, the most attractive on the day were the strawberries bursting with their red juiciness.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Zagreb

Characterised by its twin towers, the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is one of the defining symbols of the city.  On a very hot day, it was a welcome refuge from the sweltering heat. Inside, it was thronged with tourists, their average age being 70. I salute these plucky senior citizens, clinging on to their walking sticks, trying hard to have a good time. Inside, the style is Baroque, which is borne out by the richly decorated altars. 

The clock outside the Cathedral

Outside the Cathedral stand a display of "before" and "after" stonework, showing the skills of the stonemasons who have been repairing the Cathedral since the demise of the Communist regime.  The clock on the city wall apparently is showing the time when the huge earthquake of 1880 shook the city and stopped the clock in its track. Underneath the clocks were some benches, and here, a number of old people sat there aimlessly, their clocks also seemed to have stopped. I sat opposite them, wondering if one day I would also sit alone, trying to pass the time in solitude.





Suddenly, the beat of drums alerted us to a parade outside the Cathedral. The soldiers looked like a rag bag of hastily assembled troops, their uniform looked well worn and needing a refresh. In the heat, they were remarkably unfazed in their thick woollen cloaks and leather boots. Salute to the stoicism and the heatproof qualities of these soldiers.


To round up the day, we went to the Croatian National Theatre to see the Sleeping Beauty. Nothing special, but when a female dancer kept missing her jumps, I realised just how hard ballet dancing really is.

Sleeping Beauty at the National Theatre, Zagreb

An oasis of green in Zagreb

Varaždin - The Angels

The symbol of angels dominates Varaždin.  The angels are depicted as playful cherubs, who all appear to be having the time of their lives.  

Varaždin, Croatia

This beautiful Baroque town, once the capital of Croatia in the 15th century, lies ~80 km north of Zagreb.  It is not difficult to understand why the inhabitants are so proud of their heritage - it is blessed with so many well preserved Baroque buildings.  

Varaždin Castle in the Old Town

I first saw the Castle in the Old Town, with its pristine white rounded towers that is typical of the Gothic architecture in Croatia, on a poster in one of the corridors in the office.  Today, it houses the Town Museum, but unfortunately it was closed on the day of visit.  Circling the Castle is a low hill, and from the foot paths the visitor can see the surrounding areas, including the very ugly telecommunications building with its roof covered in higgledy piggledy antennae.  

Main Square, Varaždin

Spire of Varaždin Cathedral

Naive art at the Main Square, Varaždin

The Varaždin cemetery dates back to the 18th century and it was for a long time an ordinary place until 1905, when the Viennese architect Herman Haller had an idea to make it more beautiful and park-like with large trees and alleys for citizens to stroll through. Undoubtedly it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries I have visited. It is an outstanding example of landscape architecture and protected cultural and natural park.

Varaždin Cemetery

The crematorium at Varaždin Cemetery

Stall outside Varaždin Cemetary, selling lamps