For my travels

For once, I will break my own rules on this blog, by writing about a product that I will use on my travels. This Sony Cybershot DCS-RSX 100, a Christmas present, is the best premium compact that I can find on the market, with features that suit my way of life. Weighing in at 240g, it fits perfectly in any of my handbags. Its low light performance cannot be faulted, and thus solves my reluctance to buy a tripod which will only add to the weight that I have to carry around in my handbag. I will now retire my Canon Powershot G10, which was also a Christmas present, that has faithfully accompanied me on my travels and acted as my second pair of eyes.

Baggage Thieves and American Airlines

In all my travels in 2012, I was lucky not to have anything stolen from my checked in luggage. The run of luck was broken when I was passing through Miami from Nassau, the Bahamas to San Juan, Puerta Rico. The TSA lock was forced open and was therefore damaged, but fortunately nothing was taken from the case. According to ABC news, Miami ranks as #1 on the list of top 20 airports for TSA theft. There you have it.

American Airlines planes at Miami, USA

It was difficult to avoid American Airlines when flying with British Airways, since these two airlines are part of the so-called One World Alliance. From the time I started to travel with them in 2009-10 when I was working at Kansas, I have come to regard them as inefficient, impolite and worst of all, arrogant. This time, I used AA between Nassau and Puerto Rico, and between Puerto Rico and London Heathrow. These are code shared flights with British Airways, but the services are operated on a shoe string in comparison with those of British Airways.

When I departed from San Jan, I queued for 45 minutes to check in my luggage. It took the AA staff 45 minutes to check in just 3 customers. There were three check in staff and very quickly it dwindled to one. The staff took forever to process one customer, quite baffling really, considering that most passengers had only one case to check in. 

The second problem came when the check in staff at Puerto Rico declined to accept my complaint that my luggage was forced open between Nassau and Puerto Rico. I had to raise the complaint at London because my ticket was issued there. Then of course at London Heathrow, they would have nothing to do with the damage that had occurred outside of their jurisdiction. Ahem.

There were many things unsatisfactory with American Airlines. Here's my rating and the reasons why: 

Service: 1 out of 10. 
"You wanna any drink?" the flight attendant scowled. Even a hot meal at the Salvation Army could be more friendly than this. And the check in desk at Puerto Rico sucks.

Food: 0 out of 10. 
The worst culprit was a piece of Dairylea processed cheese with a hardened bread roll. Not that I eat any of these but the sight of them depressed the appetite. The worst croissant for breakfast ever: hard and tasteless.

Facilities: minus 5 out of 10. The TVs in the centre of the cabin were left on during the overnight Transatlantic flight, making it difficult to have a shut-eye. Absolutely no overnight bag offered by airlines such as British Airways or Virgin Atlantic. As I said, everything on a shoe string.

2012 Looking Back Series - Part 6

This Looking Back Series is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who shared with me the joys and sometime frustrations of travelling in Europe in 2012.

A ballet performance at the Croatian National Theatre

Zagreb was an unexpected find. It does not feature as a tourist destination for the British, but when I was invited to work there, I grabbed the chance. The city boasts a charming medieval old city with architecture and cobbled streets reminiscent of Vienna, Prague, Budapest and other Central European capitals. Numerous periods of foreign rule and proximity to some of the great dynasties of Europe have woven a rich tapestry of cultural influences over the city, as evident in Zagreb's art and architecture. Ottoman, Austrian and Hungarian influences mesh with Croatian life to form one of the most intriguing yet overlooked cities of Europe. A more surprising find was the Croatian National Theatre, where we saw the Ballet corps performing a number of classical ballet works at a fraction of the price at London's Convent Garden.

Taxidermy, National History Museum, Bonn

We visited Bonn because I did not want to miss the opportunity of seeing the former capital of West Germany. It was only when I stepped foot into this city that I realised that Bonn is the birthplace of Beethoven. The city is a disappointment; it is jokingly referred to as the "federal village" for a reason. At the Museum Mile, we escaped from the sweltering heat into the Natural History Museum and stumbled across a fine collection of lifelike taxidermy. Scores of lifelike animals and birds were captured as you would see them in an imaginary safari setting. The details are amazing, if I may use a most over-used word in these modern times. The Americans would use the word "awesome" to describe the menagerie of expertly stuffed animals on display. 

Love padlocks at Hohenzollernbrücke

We nipped over to Köln to reacquaint ourselves with this city where we once suffered heat stroke in the blazing summer sun. From the "world's greatest heap of rubble" (Rudolf Schwarz, urban planner 1945), Köln has risen from post war reconstruction to re-establish itself as a major cultural centre of the Rhineland. The Hohenzollernbrücke that spans the River Rhine is home to thousands of padlocks of love, commemorating couples' devotion to each other. These locks from lovebirds around the world hang on a fence along the bridge's pedestrian path. Some scratch their initials in the metal locks, while others have gone as far as having them professionally engraved to honour special occasions such as weddings and anniversaries. 

2012 Looking Back Series - Part 5

This Looking Back Series is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who shared with me the joys and sometimes frustrations of travelling in Europe in 2012.

Crowds outside Im Füchschen for a social drink

I had a short assignment at Düsseldorf, called affectionately by my colleagues as Düdo. Every trip to this city is not complete without making a visit to the Old Town (Altstadt), which is reachable by tram from Am Seestern. The Old Town is not really old as such; almost completely destroyed during WWII, it was rebuilt according to historic plans on its foundation walls, which makes it look like a real historic town. In the evenings and at nights, the Old Town turns into the so-called "longest bar of the world". Within one square kilometre, there are over 200 bars, coffee shops and brewing houses. The old town is the home of "Altbier", a top-fermented dark beer served often in a small glass, chilled. For a non beer drinker like me, it tastes delicious nonetheless. It was in one of the brewing houses Im Füchschen that I tasted my first pork knuckle, a hearty fare packed full with cholesterol. 

An exquisite plate at Hentrich Glass Museum

On a more refined scale are the exhibits at the Museum Kunst Palast. The Hentrich Glass Museum contains one of Europe's largest and most comprehensive glass collections. On the ground floor is an area dedicated primarily to contemporary glass art and other decorations, amongst them some exquisite pieces that are worthy of their museum status. The strength of the museum however lies in the breadth of its collection, from antiquity to modern pieces, and from Asia, the Middle East to Europe. 

2012 Looking Back Series - Part 4

This Looking Back Series is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who has shared with me the joys and sometimes frustrations of travelling in Europe in 2012.

It was so easy to get to Vienna, just a train ride from Bratislava main station that costs an unbelievable €14; so cheap compared to the astronomical prices in the UK. The OBB trains run every hour and we would get off at Simmering, then take the U-bahn directly to Stephensdom, right in the heart of Vienna.

I adore Vienna: the historic centre is grand, magnificent, glorious, and has some of the most impressive Baroque architecture in Europe. And most of all, it is a city associated with two of my favourite composers: Mozart and Beethoven. 

Stricken with grief, a figure in mourning
Zentralfriedhof, Vienna

This time, we visited some lesser known sites, purely to see a different side of Vienna. One of them is Zentralfriedhof, the Central Cemetery. To the Austrians, cemeteries are places of culture and part of Vienna's history as a city. Apart from the graves, there are also green spaces, trees, churches, historical buildings and cultural monuments. The Vienna Zentralfriedhof is a cemetery on a grand scale, with notable interments such as the composers Beethoven, Johannes Brahms, Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss I and II, and of course there is a memorial erected in memory of Mozart. The tombstones are art in themselves, some traditional, some imaginative, some creative, and some moving. It is a magnificent way to honour the dead.

Graffiti along Danube Canal, Vienna

Onto something less grand but equally interesting. We took the Twin City Liner from Bratislava to Vienna, landing at the jetty at Schwedenplatz. Passing through the Donaukanal, I had the pleasure of visiting what is best described as an urban art gallery, and all the more better because admission is free. The Danube Canal breaks off from its mother river and slithers like a snake through down town Vienna. From the boat, the eyes of the travellers can feast on a kaleidoscope of bright colours sprayed on the brick walls that unfold a comic-book style panoramic exhibition of contemporary, urban graffiti. As we cruised along the canal, the wall-to-wall murals consume every bare, grey surface of stone, brick or cement. I love the cheekiness of the drawings, and admire the sense of fun that the artists impart through these paintings.

2012 Looking Back Series - Part 3

This Looking Back Series is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who has shared with me the joys and sometimes frustration of travelling in Europe in 2012.

Over the Easter weekend, we ventured to the eastern part of Slovakia, famed among the locals for spectacular mountain scenery, castles, and medieval towns untouched by modernity. 

A rustic restaurant, Donovaly

On our way to the High Tatra Mountains, we stopped at Donovaly in the Low Tatras National Park, one of the most popular ski resorts in Slovakia. It was Easter time and the snow had all but gone, giving the place a deserted look and feel. We lunched at a rustic restaurant, ate some mediocre food, and continued on our way. Edged in my memory is the wooden furniture in the restaurant: the brightly painted chairs added a folksy and whimsical touch to this otherwise run of the mill restaurant.

A folksy touch at Vlkolínec

Onto Vlkolínec, a picturesque village listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Strictly speaking, Vlkolínec is situated in the centre of Slovakia, and I want to make this clear in case I further expose my ignorance in local geography. This remote village, reachable by a dirt track, is one of the best preserved settlements in Slovakia. The houses, made of timber, are situated on the street frontages of narrow holdings, with stables, smaller outbuildings and barns ranged behind them. The main street is on a comparatively steep slope and there is a canalised stream flowing through the village. On a beautiful spring day, I marvelled at the old rustic architecture that has not been disturbed by any new development, but was disappointed at the absence of a restaurant. Not having a place to eat is unthinkable for the Chinese, since in the old days my ancestors would greet each other by asking "Have you eaten?"

The majestic Spiš Castle

By far the most spectacular visit we made was to Spiš Castle (Spišský hrad), one of the largest castle compounds in Central Europe. The Castle towers on top of a limestone cliff some 600m above sea level; and what a climb it was on a cold and windy day! My ears nearly perished in the cold and I was struck by a painful cold stimulus headache also known as a brain freeze. But the climb was worth while: from the castle hill that is encircled by a huge walled settlement, I was rewarded with a magnificent view of the surroundings. To this day, this castle remains one of the most magnificent fortresses that I have visited in Europe. 

Folk music and dance

Grand Hotel Kempinski, Štrbské Pleso

The fairy tale Bojnický Zámok

We chose to stay at the Grand Hotel Kempinski at Štrbské Pleso, a popular ski resort in the High Tatras. The place itself is a pronunciation challenge for me: at least one vowel is missing. The veranda of the hotel room looks onto the glacial mountain lake Štrbské Pleso, a world away from the hustle and bustle of a busy ski resort. We were treated to a delightful hour of Slovakian folk dances in the hotel lobby on Easter Sunday, with musical accompaniment from a quartet of violins, cello and accordion. The dances were performed by young women and men without holding the partner, with hands on the side. The fast turnings, tramples and swirling were beautifully choreographed and made me breathless with admiration for the dancers' skills.

On our way back to Bratislava, we visited a truly romantic monument in Central Europe: Bojnický Zámok. Without a doubt, the castle is an ideal setting for fantasy and fairy tale movies. For me, the surprise is in the collection of original wooden furniture, beautifully carved and preserved in their pristine condition. My most intact recollection from this visit is the cheap sandwich purchased on site from one of the fast food joints: how bad can food really be? But then compared to some of the fast food joints I tried in the USA, at least I could claim that I was able to recognise some of the components: the bread roll and some salad.

2012 Looking Back Series - Part 2

This Looking Back Series is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who has shared with me the joys and sometimes frustration of travelling in Europe in 2012.

View of Český Krumlov from the Castle

A year ago, if anyone asked me where is Český Krumlov, I would have no idea. This UNESCO World Heritage site in the Southern Bohemian region of the Czech Republic is not a tourist destination featured in any of the popular travel brochures in the UK. But it is a breathtakingly beautiful town that comes complete with a Castle, an extensive bridge over a deep gap in the rock upon which the castle is built, and a large rococo garden which has witnessed signs of neglect. Situated on the banks of the Vltava River, it is an outstanding example of a small central European medieval town whose architectural heritage has remained intact thanks to its peaceful evolution for more than five centuries. We picked the right time to visit: beautiful spring weather and the right amount of light. At the restaurant, I ate a memorable meal of deep fried carp, apparently a dish that the Czechs eat at New Year.

Main Square, Prague, at night

We went back to Prague, a city that impressed us with her beauty when we visited her last in 2002. This magical city of bridges, cathedrals, gold-tipped towers and church tomes, has been mirrored in the surface of the Vtlava River for more than ten centuries. Almost undamaged by WWII, Prague's compact medieval centre remains a wonderful mixture of cobbled lanes, walled courtyards, cathedrals and countless church spires, all in the shadow of her majestic castle. It is a city full of energy, music, cultural art, and good food catering to a large range of tourists. To me, Prague is one of Europe's most charming and beautiful cities. We stayed at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, and luxuriated in the way they looked after their guests. The breakfast table is one of the finest in terms of choice and quality.

2012 Looking Back Series - Part 1

This Looking Back Series post is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who has shared with me the joys and sometimes frustration of travelling in Europe in 2012. 

Hauptbahnhof, Zurich. Public transport is probably one of
the most affordable living expenses in Switzerland

The year began in Zurich, the capital city of Switzerland. This is a country noted for precision time pieces and predictability. The trains run on time, to the minute; everything works, much like Japan, but rather more antiseptic. The shops sell a bewildering variety of Swiss army knives, objects that are not carried among the people I know. Is there a special breed of people who buy these multi-functional small tools? There are of course Lindt chocolates, my favourite, but they are twice the price of that in the UK supermarkets! Another discovery are the delicious mini macaroons sold by Sprüngli, part of the Lindt corporation (Chocoladefabriken Lindt & Sprüngli). Eating is believing. There seemed to be a heightened ecological consciousness among the citizens: the separation of recyclables and non recyclables is enforced with a zeal that puts the non conformists to shame. And of course there is the strict compliance with rules and regulations. Cross an empty street at your peril when the red light for pedestrian crossing is lit! You could be fined by a policeman on the spot. Life seemed so regimented, it filled me with anxiety.

Remnants of the old town wall, Luzern

We visited Luzern because it is within travelling distance from Zurich and its reputation as a tourist destination. One of the city's famous landmarks - the Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke), a wooden bridge erected in the 14th century that straddles River Reuss, is a delight. On a very cold day when the wind chill factor attacked all exposed parts of the body, we ventured north of the the River Reuss to the Old Town where remnants of the old town walls still exist on the hill above Luzern. We counted the eight tall watch towers and watched children, protected by their waterproof trousers, played on their sledges with gay abandon. 

Skyline from Hotel Sheraton, Room 702

Then it is back to Bratislava, a city that I have come to regard as my third home (after Hong Kong and London). The hospitality is heart warming as it always is, and the view from the Hotel Sheraton is a welcome sight both in the morning and the evening. The forest of advertising bill boards is an arresting sight - the saturation level is unique in this part of Europe. Along the banks of the River Danube, at the height of summer, there are hoards of stunningly beautiful young women promenading in their punishingly high heels, often on the arms of much older men. At the Hlavne Namestie (Main Square), there is a cake shop that sells the most delicious chestnut cake. But most of all, this is a small country with a big heart.

At the Danubiana Art Museum, on the southern edge of Bratislava, we came across one of the more impressive collections of modern art. There are visually inviting pieces that I can understand, without having to listen to  audio tapes to learn their meaning. The colours are vivid, vibrant and joyous. The piece that bowled us over is the Wings of Danube, a massive sculpture by Peter Pollág.  It tells of a dream, a vision, and of endless possibilities. The Danubiana is probably one of the most under rated art galleries because one needs private transport to get there, and it is out of the way for mainstream tourists especially the stag party revellers that so favour Bratislava for her cheap beer.

Passing through San Juan, Puerto Rico

Amidst the heavy traffic, the lure of the $20m lottery

Everywhere in San Juan, one sees all kinds of festive decorations, even along highways. The taxi driver enthused, "Parties! Drinks! Parties! Drinks!" and then let out a full throaty laugh. That cheered him up in the dense traffic. The 4-lane highway #21 was heavily congested in both directions, between Guaynabo and Isla Verde at peak hours. Crawling traffic only. My colleague told me about a car jacking incident when a 16-year son of his friend, driving in a Lexus, was killed. That spooked me and has put paid to my plan of seeing the city centre at night.

One of the 3 buildings at City View Plaza, San Juan

The Puerto Rico office is located in City View Plaza at Guaynabo where a multitude of American global IT companies have set up office. All the creature comforts are there, and more, except tea. Inside it's all glass and chrome, fancy furniture and fittings, plus all the mod cons that one needs. It's in stark contrast to the basic working conditions at Nassau. 

The other day, a band appeared in the office playing some kind of festive music. They received a lukewarm welcome, as most people were glued to their seats continuing with their work. 

Festive cheers at the San Juan office

Near the office complex, there are a number of fast food joints. A chicken dish with rice and a drink is $6.99. Plantains are $1 extra per portion. You order the food from the cashier and fetch it from the counter where the dish is assembled. The food comes on a polystyrene plate with plastic knife and fork. It's sustenance, but better than Burger King or MacDonald's. One of the things about travelling is that it forces me to adapt, including eating things that I normally would eschew at home. 

Alas, on this trip, my experiences of San Juan and her people were limited to the trips between the airport, hotel, and the office. But this city has a lot more to offer than Nassau, and perhaps on another trip, I will visit the old city and explore a bit of Puerto Rico. 

And a word about the hotel. This is a green hotel. The water comes in a trickle. There is a car charging point next to the hotel, but no one seemed to be using it. I did not notice a single electric car during my daily commute. Such green bumpkin taken to the extreme. 

Views from the office at Guaynabo, San Juan.
Endless miles of highways.

Aerial view of San Juan, Puerto Rico

View from the hotel on the Isla Verda.
More highways.

En route to Puerto Rico

The spanking new check in hall at Lynden Pindling
international airport, Nassau

It's a pleasant surprise to step foot in the brand new terminal at Lynden Pindling International airport, Nassau. Such an improvement to the old terminal that serves presumably flights from other parts of the world. This new terminal serves US departures only and is staffed by US Immigration officials. It's the first time at departure that an immigration official asked me if the luggage showing on the screen belonged to me. There was the usual finger print taking, four fingers of the right hand, followed by the right thumb, then four fingers of the left hand, followed by the left thumb. The big surprise is the courtesy accorded to the travellers by the officials. 

The Embraer 145 flown by American Eagle on
short haul from Nassau to Miami

The flight was late arriving from Miami. Since I had bad experience flying with American Airlines, I was slightly concerned that the delay could result in me being separated from my luggage on arrival at San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Miami International Airport looks the piece. It is totally different from the one I remembered when I last set foot in Miami in the late 80s. The D terminal is spacious, airy, and gives the travellers a sense of calm. The signposting is first class. The sky train that whisked travellers from the arrival gates to the departure gates was fast and efficient. Everything worked. 

Sashimi counter at Miami International Airport

It was a huge relief to find some decent food again at MIA. The sashimi was delicious. No more rice and peas or plantains. The positions of the eateries are so well signposted, it was easy to decide if one had the time to get to a restaurant of choice, have something to eat, and then head for the departure gate. 

The 757 to PR was full. The flight attendant, a tad impatient, instructed the passengers that if they wanted to take off, they had better take their seats! No please, just straight to the point. It was chaotic inside the economy cabin because the overhead lockers were full and people had to search for a space to store their hand luggage. I noted that on entering the aircraft, the two women ahead of me dropped their luggage in the overhead lockers at the business class cabin and then proceeded to saunter down the aisle to the economy cabin. The big guy who sat next to me spent the whole journey munching non stop M&Ms and an assortment of sweets.

Approaching San Juan, Puerto Rico

It was raining at Puerto Rico. Exiting for baggage reclaim was a bit hairy because I must have picked up another route that no one used. I passed through many deserted departure gates, all on my own. And then at the baggage hall, it was pure guess as to which belt the baggage would be presented. (More in another blog when I discovered that the TSA002 lock in my luggage had been forced open).

Then, another pleasant surprise! A ground transportation official gave me a piece of official documentation showing me the taxi fare to the hotel. The taxi driver charged exactly that amount. The taxi was clean and tidy, unlike most of the taxis at Nassau Bahamas. Some of the taxis in Nassau are literally falling to pieces, and that is not an exaggeration.

The hotel at Isla Verde, with view of the ocean (just about)

And fInally to the last piece of surprise. The hotel has an Asian restaurant and served one of the most succulent steam garoupa, ever.

For now, it is back to a thriving city, and a respite to take stock of my Bahamian experience that turned out to be an assault on my sensibilities.

Nassau, The Bahamas Series - Walkabout

In the fierce noon day heat, I foolishly went out for a stroll. Here are some images that I took before I was struck down by heat stroke. The heat was deceptive, even when a strong cool breeze was dislodging my sun hat. I have been away from sub tropical climate for too long now and will need to acclimatise again.

Sounds of Da Crab Man

"Sounds of Da Crab Man" - the band that plays on Bay Street, down town Nassau. The male singer has an unusually high pitch voice; from a distance, you could have mistaken him as a woman. I observed that no one gave the band any money, but they played on. Here, they were taking a rest.

Junkanoo Beach, Nassau

Junkanoo Beach, 150 metres from the hotel. In the distance were three cruise ships stopping by Nassau. The shacks on the beach were selling food and drinks, and some tourists were seen swaying to the music, some of them looked inebriated by the way they were dancing.   By this time, a little voice in my head told me to run for shade.

Street near Junkanoo Beach

Not too far from the beaten track, in fact 150m from the hotel and 50m from Junkanoo beach is this street with rubble lying in front of a house. Maybe there had been storm damage, maybe it is neglect. In time to come I hope to be able to differentiate wilful neglect from natural disaster.

Vantage point, Junkanoo Beach

I try to replicate the romantic view of the Caribbean as advertised on many travel brochures. This was taken at Junkanoo Beach, along the arterial route north of Providence Island. Although it was not crowded, it was hardly exclusive as this image would suggest. It shows how deceptive photography can be. In the distance is the Paradise Island lighthouse, the oldest and best known lighthouse in the Bahamas and the oldest surviving lighthouse in the West Indies.

Cool hat, Jamaican style

A crew was laying pavement stones and here a Jamaican workman was seen taking time off. I like the way he had adapted his sun hat for his woolly hat. Really cool. In the heat, the pace of work was slow, and the crew had stopped working waiting for a single man to level the sand on the ground. The concept of assembly line production has yet to be introduced to this island.

Come in for a drink, Junkanoo Beach

A number of sheds on the Junkanoo were selling coconut drinks. Here, at the entrance to a bar, a machete is dramatically poised for action. In a health and safety obsessed country like the UK, it is unthinkable to exhibit a lethal weapon like this in the public. Time to adjust my values and the way I look at things. 

Nassau, The Bahamas Series - Architecture

Two storey structures at Bay Street, down town Nassau

The market hall on Bay Street, Nassau

Building on Parliament Street, Nassau

The Atlantis resort, seen from Bay Street, Nassau

The ubiquitous palm umbrellas

Nassau, The Bahamas Series - Direct Marketing

Girls posing at the Speed Week, Bay Street, Nassau

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder

Cheap beer

More cheap ber

Nassau, The Bahamas Series - Food

As a Chinese, I eat to live. Food is an enjoyment in life, not mere nourishment. I was not expecting haute cuisine here in the Bahamas, but the variety and quality that I have experienced so far does not fill me with anticipation for the next meal.

Conch salad

This is conch salad. Conch is on every menu. It is the national dish. Observe that it was served with a dollop of wasabi, not quite sure for what purpose. This conch salad was from the Poop Deck restaurant, right next to the office. The boss was with us, so we forsook the food shack (plastic chairs and dish of the day) and went to this place that overlooks a sandy beach. There was a wedding lunch party on the day, and the table on the veranda overlooking the sea was beautifully set with red roses, silver cutlery and champagne flutes.

Poop Deck restaurant, Sandyport, Nassau

Most dishes in restaurants come with two sides, choices are: macaroni cheese (what?), chips, rice and peas, potato salad, plantain, sweet potato, and salad. They are universal accompaniments. You get them almost everywhere you go. Tap water is called house water. I tried Bahama Mama once and was sick as a parrot afterwards. No wonder, it is a cocktail mixture that features two potent rums, dark rum and 151 proof rum. It was the coffee and coconut liqueurs along with pineapple juice that add that extra tropical touch. I was fooled by the innocent looking tropical colours.

After encountering a conch salad too many, I desperately needed to regain my appetite for food. So I decided to eat some Chinese food. At the Double Dragon restaurant just off Bay Street, they offered a menu in Chinese and I chose the prawn fried noodles. The meal came in a pyrex dish, which was surprise #1. The noodles were thicker than the normal egg noodles, which was surprise #2. Surprise #3 was the service: the food was dropped in front of the diner, without fuss, without hospitality, without a smile. Clearly they were serving the passing trade, the visitors from the cruise ships which docked nearby and would not be coming back any time soon.

The Pisces Restaurant at Sun Fun Resort, Cable Beach

Collette in the office drove me to the Pisces restaurant at the Sun Fun Resort since the food shack up the road from the office was closed due to a funeral (there was a black wreath above the entrance). The menu is on an A4 sheet of paper folded in three. It's honest home cooking, and the quantity of food on one plate is enough to feed a family of four. On the day, the place was nearly empty, as you can see. At one end of the restaurant was a Panasonic plasma TV, broadcasting some American soap. This can only happen at a place where food is secondary to entertainment, and where TV helps the diners to forget about the length of time it takes for a dish to be prepared.

Corn Fritters, Bay Street, Nassau

Just opposite the hotel is Corn Fritters. Garden furniture, laminated menu on an A4 paper, but pleasant staff. On an island, it is surprising that seafood is expensive, maybe there is too much effort involved in catching fish. Disappointingly, the mahi mahi was not available.There was no finesse in the presentation, food was simply piled onto the plate. Minimum effort, maximum gain.