This Looking Back Series is dedicated to my Travel and Life Companion who has shared with me the joys and sometimes frustration of travelling in Europe in 2012.
Over the Easter weekend, we ventured to the eastern part of Slovakia, famed among the locals for spectacular mountain scenery, castles, and medieval towns untouched by modernity.
On our way to the High Tatra Mountains, we stopped at Donovaly in the Low Tatras National Park, one of the most popular ski resorts in Slovakia. It was Easter time and the snow had all but gone, giving the place a deserted look and feel. We lunched at a rustic restaurant, ate some mediocre food, and continued on our way. Edged in my memory is the wooden furniture in the restaurant: the brightly painted chairs added a folksy and whimsical touch to this otherwise run of the mill restaurant.
Onto Vlkolínec, a picturesque village listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Strictly speaking, Vlkolínec is situated in the centre of Slovakia, and I want to make this clear in case I further expose my ignorance in local geography. This remote village, reachable by a dirt track, is one of the best preserved settlements in Slovakia. The houses, made of timber, are situated on the street frontages of narrow holdings, with stables, smaller outbuildings and barns ranged behind them. The main street is on a comparatively steep slope and there is a canalised stream flowing through the village. On a beautiful spring day, I marvelled at the old rustic architecture that has not been disturbed by any new development, but was disappointed at the absence of a restaurant. Not having a place to eat is unthinkable for the Chinese, since in the old days my ancestors would greet each other by asking "Have you eaten?"
By far the most spectacular visit we made was to Spiš Castle (Spišský hrad), one of the largest castle compounds in Central Europe. The Castle towers on top of a limestone cliff some 600m above sea level; and what a climb it was on a cold and windy day! My ears nearly perished in the cold and I was struck by a painful cold stimulus headache also known as a brain freeze. But the climb was worth while: from the castle hill that is encircled by a huge walled settlement, I was rewarded with a magnificent view of the surroundings. To this day, this castle remains one of the most magnificent fortresses that I have visited in Europe.
We chose to stay at the Grand Hotel Kempinski at Štrbské Pleso, a popular ski resort in the High Tatras. The place itself is a pronunciation challenge for me: at least one vowel is missing. The veranda of the hotel room looks onto the glacial mountain lake Štrbské Pleso, a world away from the hustle and bustle of a busy ski resort. We were treated to a delightful hour of Slovakian folk dances in the hotel lobby on Easter Sunday, with musical accompaniment from a quartet of violins, cello and accordion. The dances were performed by young women and men without holding the partner, with hands on the side. The fast turnings, tramples and swirling were beautifully choreographed and made me breathless with admiration for the dancers' skills.
On our way back to Bratislava, we visited a truly romantic monument in Central Europe: Bojnický Zámok. Without a doubt, the castle is an ideal setting for fantasy and fairy tale movies. For me, the surprise is in the collection of original wooden furniture, beautifully carved and preserved in their pristine condition. My most intact recollection from this visit is the cheap sandwich purchased on site from one of the fast food joints: how bad can food really be? But then compared to some of the fast food joints I tried in the USA, at least I could claim that I was able to recognise some of the components: the bread roll and some salad.
Over the Easter weekend, we ventured to the eastern part of Slovakia, famed among the locals for spectacular mountain scenery, castles, and medieval towns untouched by modernity.
 |
| A rustic restaurant, Donovaly |
 |
| A folksy touch at Vlkolínec |
 |
| The majestic Spiš Castle |
 |
Folk music and dance
Grand Hotel Kempinski, Štrbské Pleso
|
 |
| The fairy tale Bojnický Zámok |
On our way back to Bratislava, we visited a truly romantic monument in Central Europe: Bojnický Zámok. Without a doubt, the castle is an ideal setting for fantasy and fairy tale movies. For me, the surprise is in the collection of original wooden furniture, beautifully carved and preserved in their pristine condition. My most intact recollection from this visit is the cheap sandwich purchased on site from one of the fast food joints: how bad can food really be? But then compared to some of the fast food joints I tried in the USA, at least I could claim that I was able to recognise some of the components: the bread roll and some salad.
