Eisenstadt, Austria

What prompted me to visit Eisenstadt, the state capital of Burgenland in Austria? Schloss   Esterházy, and a new experience outside Vienna.


Eisenstadt is about 1.5 hours away from Bratislava, reachable by train.  Or so I thought. From Bratislava-Petržalka station, according to the ZSR timetable, it was one change at Ort Parndorf , and then a direct train would take me to Eisenstadt.  Everything went to plan at Ort Parndorf; the train arrived, with Eisenstadt clearly displayed as the destination. Then things quickly unraveled. When the train stopped at  Neusiedl am See, and a new crew came on board, the guard duly informed me in German - a language that I do not speak or understand - that I had to get off at the next stop because the train was not going to Eisenstadt after all. When I did get off at the next stop, in the middle of nowhere, I had no clue how to continue with the journey. Then a fellow passenger who also fell foul of this change of route trick, offered a lift in his friend's car.  



Travelling along the foothills of the Leitha Mountains towards Eisenstadt, the route was lined with vineyards, more family than industrial production.  It was a beautiful spring day: the blue sky and the open country side could not but lift the spirit after a spell of wet and cold weather in Bratislava.

The Palace Park at Schloss Esterhazy

Schloss Esterhazy, Eisenstadt

An ornately crafted lamp stand
inside the apartment of Schloss Esterhazy

Esterházy Palace in Eisenstadt is indeed a beautiful baroque palace and presents a fascinating view of the resplendent life once lived at the court of the Princes Esterházy, who originally hailed from Hungary, but maintained their primary residence at Eisenstadt to be near the imperial Hapsburg family at Vienna. The Palace is imposing from the outside, all honey colored stone, cleaned and glowing in the warm spring sunshine.  To visit the apartments, one has to join a tour, conducted entirely in German. There were a few jokes about the strictures of the court, which someone kindly translated for me, but in translation, the jokes were lost. The servants quarters were also open, their starkly austere interiors illustrated the upstairs, downstairs way of life in the 18th century.  

The sumptuous Haydnsaal

The showpiece of the Palace is undoubtedly the Haydnsaal.  Its size, interior design and appointments are a manifestation of the political, economic and cultural significance of the Esterházy princes. Today it is hailed as one of the most beautiful and outstanding concert halls in the world, above all because of its acoustics. Its name goes back to the renowned composer Joseph Haydn, who was in the Esterházy family’s service for almost forty years and composed many of his works in Eisenstadt.  The unique frescoes of the hall originate from the 17th century, and the splendid murals and ceiling paintings depict scenes from Greek mythology.  On the day of visit, the Shanghai Quartet was due to give a performance at 19:30 and the musicians were tuning up.

Bergkirche, Einsenstadt

Another destination is the Bergkirche, with its curiously shaped roof. On the day, a wedding was taking place and the bride, wearing a beautiful bridal gown, was calling for her mama to have the family photo taken.  Interestingly, the bride wore no make up and boasted a bed-hair hairstyle. 

Haydn's tomb, Bergkirche, Einstenstadt

Bergkirche houses Haydn's tomb, for which the tourists are charged €1 to view. It was strangely underwhelming to come face to face with the mausoleum of a composer whose music I enjoy, and it was disappointing that Haydn did not have a more fitting place to rest, hidden instead behind a pair of ugly doors. 


In the town centre is the Town Hall, situated at the end of a pedestrian precinct lined with cafes and boutiques.   Here, I met a delightful woman who teaches at an elementary school in a small village nearby, and she took me in her car to the Eisenstadt train station, where another story of missed connections back to Bratislava enfolded.  This woman, whose name I did not ask, bestowed on me kindness and generosity, and when she talked about her own three children and the other 14 in her class, I was touched by her smile and her kindness.

Rathaus, Eisenstadt